Raising and caring for a horse requires the
owner to follow one of two concepts: developing and handling the animal
in a way that is ideal for that particular individual, or managing him so
that the demands placed on him follow a generic pattern that does not account
for the differences between horses, optimal. In this context, ideal implies
controlling the factors that contribute to a horse's general health,
and the result is in the animal's best interest. The other method, however,
involves pushing the horse to limits that may not be the healthiest for
him, even when the short-term result indicates otherwise. It is the horse's
long-term well-being that is the goal.
One of the earliest decisions
between these two concepts comes when the foal begins eating his own ration.
At this time the owner must develop a diet for the youngster that will fulfill
his nutritional requirements. But it is also possible to feed a ration that
will encourage growth that is too rapid. When a ration is designed primarily
for accelerated growth it often becomes unbalanced, and the problem becomes
twofold. First, the imbalance in nutrients, particularly with minerals,
interferes with the horse's metabolism and affects the development of
tendons, ligaments and bones. Second, the high-energy diet often puts more
weight on the foal's frame than is healthy and the stress can be very
damaging. An ideal growth pattern is one that allows the young horse to
develop at a natural rate of gain that doesn't stress the joints and
support structures. Feeding a proper diet will help avoid some of the problems
foals encounter, such as epiphysitis and osteochondrosis. Following a more
moderate program will mean the weanling and yearling will not be as developed
as their peers who were pushed for early, fast growth, however, as maturity
approaches the horse will be healthier, having gone through the stages of
development in the right sequence and at the correct time.
Another
aspect of this debate also relates to the young horse, the start of training
under saddle. It has become common practice to begin schooling a horse as
a long yearling or a two year old, and to expect him to be finished as a
three or four year old. At this time, though, he is just reaching physical
and mental maturity. Some animals at two have reached enough size that they
appear ready to start training; yet it is important to remember that the
growth plates in the bones have not completely closed, and the joints can
be easily damaged by too much repetitive work. Just because the horse appears
full-grown, there is still a great deal of development that must be completed.
These young horses are also immature mentally. Their attention span is short,
and they can be easily confused when confronted with too much information.
Many training problems that arise later can be traced back to early schooling
that was rushed, or steps that were skipped to quickly reach a desired result.
Ideally, the owner can wait until the young horse is closer to maturity
before starting him under saddle, and then can move slowly through the levels
of training. This eliminates many of the "holes" found in older
horse that are sent to be reschooled. Delaying training until the horse
is physically stronger will also prevent some of the maladies that affect
horses as they age. Arthritis, ringbone and sidebone are a few of the conditions
that may cause lameness in relatively young animals, and in many cases may
be partially attributed to the intensity of the work underwent as a youngster.
For example, the European method of training generally calls for starting
a horse at the age of four or five and the finished horse is one nearing
his teens, if then. Many horses remain in competition until their late teens,
even at the international level. This method requires more patience on the
part of the owner/rider, but the dividends are well worth it when you have
a sound, usable horse in his twenties.
Hoof care is one more area
where the owner must choose the method by which they will handle their horse.
It has become a common belief that the horse must have four perfectly round
hooves that all point straight ahead, despite the conformation of the individual
animal. This arrangement may be aesthetically pleasing to the human eye,
but rarely serves the horse best. The feet are designed to support the horse's
body mass, and therefore grow to where the weight is distributed. When the
hooves are trimmed or shod to change them from the natural position the
result will eventually be detrimental to his health and way of moving, even
though the appearance is more "normal." An ideal hoof for a particular
horse is one allowed to remain as it naturally grows, trimmed and balanced
to maintain that position. Consequently, if a horse has some rotation in
a joint or the column of bone he will be toed-in or toed-out to some degree.
To correct that deviation by straightening the hoof will place stress on
the other structures. The horse will remain functional with this alteration
for a while, but over time problems will develop, often causing a variety
of lamenesses. It is also important to let the hoof develop a thick wall
with the necessary flares. Filing the outer wall down until it is perfectly
symmetrical and small will alter how the foot bears the horse's weight.
Balancing human and horse interests is a constant challenge for
the conscientious owner. It requires evaluation of the rider's goals
and the horse's well-being and their compatibility. And it requires
the ability to judge the long-term effects of today's actions. As horse
lovers we all want our animals to be healthy and useful for decades, not
just years, which means following the route that encourages the ideal development
of the individual, rather than prescribing to a preconceived notion of how
the horse should look and perform.